Surfing: From Ancient Tradition to Pop-Culture Phenomenon

Already a famous surfer and swimmer, Duke Paoa Kahanamoku , passes through southern California on his way to the summer Olympics in Stockhlm, Sweden. He gives wildly popular surfing demonstrations at Santa Monica and Corona del Mar. After winning a gold medal in the 100 meter free-style, Duke is called the fastest swimmer in the world. He becomes a favorite in Hollywood, exposing all of his California friends to the sport of surfing.

Duke is invited by the New South Wales Swimming Association to give a demonstration in Sydney, Australia. Already ocean-lovers, Australians embrace surfing instantly.

A dentist with a passion for surfing, 'Doc' ball becomes the second surf photographer (and the first from California) to document surfing with waterproof equipment.

Tom Blake, originally from Wisconsin, organizes the Coast Surfriding Championships at Corona del Mar, California. The competition is halted after the onset of World War II.
Blake is also known as the fist photographer to shoot surfer from the water using waterproof casing for cameras.

John Kelly, Rabbit Kekai, and Woody Brown are among the few surfers who brave 25 foot waves at this time. The three also make great leaps in surfboard innovation which include making boards lighter, faster, stronger, and more maneuverable.

Doc Ball publishes the classic photo book, California Surfriders.

The Associated Press published a photo of Woody Brown surfing a giant wave at Makaha. The picture appears in newspapers in California and throughout the world. "The photo of Brown and his friends streaking that Makaha wall galvanized a large group of surfers who began an exodus to Hawai'i from California."

Californians, Fred van Dyke and Peter Cole, enticed by Associated Press photograph, quit their teaching jobs (the day after they saw the picture as a matter of fact) and head to Hawai'i. They eventually become known as the "surfing teachers." As surfing comes out of becomes increasingly popular and the documentary The Endless Summer is released, the two become famous surfers.

Inspired by his teenage daughter Kathy, author Frederick Kohner published Gidget, the Little Girl with Big Ideas. A novel which wildly popularized surfing and surf culture.

Marge Calhoun, one of the first female surfers in this predominately male sport, wins the prestigious Makaha International Surfing Championships.

The three original Gidget movies: Gidget, Gidget Goes Hawaiian, and Gidget Goes to Rome are released in the late 1950s and early 1960s. A TV sitcom also named Gidget and two telemovies are released in the late 1960s and early 1970s. In the late 1980s that was one last failed attempt at reviving the series.
More than anything these "beach bunny" films served to popularize the sport.

Just one year after recovering from temporary paralysis caused by a diving accident, Anona Napoleon wins the women's division of the Makaha International Surfing Championships.

John Kelly, a life long activist, establishes Save Our Surf an organization which successfully blocks over thirty major coastal developments.

The Beach Boys release their album Surfin' Safari which serves to popularize beach culture, "beach party" movies, and surf music.

Friend of Doc Ball's, Leroy 'Granny' Grannis continues Doc's tradition of surf photography and becomes the founding photographer for Surfing Magazine.

Bruce Brown's quirky and witty documentary (it certainly does not fit into our current idea of a documentary) is released. It follows Mike Hynson and Robert August, on a surfing trip around the world. It inspires many surfers to start "hunting" around the globe for the perfect wave.